Motorcycle Chain replacement – Kawasaki ER 500 – Episode 7

Motorcycle Chain replacement – Kawasaki ER 500 – Episode 7
In this episode we replace the chain using a chain splitting/riveting tool.

Some people state that you can’t ‘push’ rivets out with these tools, we’ll boys and girls your doing it wrong (unless you have a cheap knock off)

14 thoughts on “Motorcycle Chain replacement – Kawasaki ER 500 – Episode 7

  1. Thanks for the comment dude much appreciated – Youtube seems to be over populated with Yanks, nothing against them more of a bad point for us brits really – anyroad thanks again – matt

  2. man the rust on this thing is awful, i hear you salt your roads in england, must mean there aren’t nearly so many older bikes on the road (because of the corrosion!)

  3. Just noticed that Swingarm, looks like it needs a bit of tlc, I’m in the process of removing one from a Yamaha XJ600 1997…….covered in 10 mm mud….hmmmm

  4. Great Video! could you tell me whether the axle pin was reverse thread? I can’t seem to get mine off but I’m assuming it’s normal and I need to grow some muscles haha

  5. Thanks for the video, it’s very important for me to have a possibility to watch the correct movements for chain replacement. But I’ve a question for you, can I change the chain ( or only the rear sprocket without touching the chain ) without removing the brake rod’s nut ?

  6. hey mate, liking the vids – the front sprocket. Did you fit it with the raised lip facing the engine? looks like you did ?

  7. Do you know which chain tool you used? It looks like a D.I.D one but they vary in price so much I’m assuming some are copies (range from 30 to 100 quid). I wanna avoid having to grind pins off, I already got a fairly expensive £65 Oxford chain tool but I’m not sure if it’s man enough.

  8. One word of caution, DON’T use a pressure washer/steam cleaner on your chain to clean it (not at close range anyway), cause i made that mistake and managed to blast water passed the O-Rings which got in between the links, the water stayed in there because of the o-rings and proceeded to rust and seize the chain in several spots. Just use a low pressure hose if you have to. Great vids BTW. Thanks.

  9. Hello Matt,
    thanks alot for the great videos!
    Love how you can see that the rear wheel is completely out of balance @ 7:30, seems like the bearing really is in good shape!

  10. I’ll buy closed chains and remove the bridge.
    at the same time I can inspect and lube the link / bridge bearings. And no need to buy an pricy quality splitting/riveting tool.

  11. Matt it appears you are not restring the bike but bringing it back to good mechanical safe condition whick is good but shouldn’t you have checked the swinging arm bushes or bearings. Also you mentioned Kawasakies foresight in not making the chain adjusters from aluminium but I believe they are cast aluminium and the swinging arm is steel box section. I mentioned in a previous vid I would have screwed the axle bolt nut onto it half way before bashing it with a soft hammer.

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