Motorcycle levers installation: Kawasaki EX500 #14

Motorcycle levers installation: Kawasaki EX500 #14
This is somewhat of a “how to install motorcycle levers” video. This took less than 10 minutes to install them.
Orange CNC brake and clutch levers cost less than , shipping took about 2 weeks form China.
Comment below if you have any questions about these levers or my bike.
My #motorcycle is a 2004 #kawasaki Ninja EX500r.
Did any of you have any problems on your CNC levers from China?
I didn’t get any bad reviews for these, good for the price.

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12 thoughts on “Motorcycle levers installation: Kawasaki EX500 #14

  1. WARNING!!! There is a brass cylinder in the factory lever for the clutch that needs to be taken out and installed in to the aftermarket lever. The cylinder is made of brass. It is just greased and installed in to the underside of the new leaver in the pin hole. Then the lever is put on. If you don’t do this the lever will be loose and not adjust properly and in many cases the bike wont start in the smaller grip setting because the sensor is not engaged properly.

  2. See my comment there is a cylinder made of brass from your factory lever you need to take off and put in to the new one. That is why you have a loose lever with play!!!1

  3. Sorry is that a ZZ-R 250 (EX250H) ? ’cause I can’t find the correct levers (are they maybe F14/K828 ?) thanks

  4. I got the USF-127 Adjustable CNC Folding Extendable Motorcycle Brake and Clutch Levers for my 2014 Kawasaki Versys 650 ABS.

    Brake lever fits perfectly and works, but the clutch lever isn’t. Box didn’t come with any other parts/bolts other than the levers themselves. The bolt that was on my original oem clutch lever seems to be thinner than the new clutch hole it’s supposed to go into, so there’s a lot of movement the clutch lever is doing, unless that’s normal and all I need to do is tighten the clutch cable then I feel stupid and lost lol.

  5. Ok pay close ATTENTION! When you install an aftermarket brake lever you better be careful. It is very easy to not get it right and have a wheel lock up. I have been riding over 50 years and just put some new levers on. The new levers depressed the MC plunger “a few millimeters” too far in the factory setting and resulted in a front wheel lock up in a tight turn and the bike and I went down hard and fast. The first sign is the engine begins to lug and then the wheel locks. If you make any change to the bike do not assume it will work as advertised. Seriously I had no idea it was coming or that the bike could even do that.

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