2003 Kawasaki KLR-250 (KL250D) Motorcycle Carburetor Re-Install Highlights
After rebuilding the carburetor on my 2003 Kawasaki KLR250 motorcycle I show highlights from the re install procedure.
5 thoughts on “2003 Kawasaki KLR-250 (KL250D) Motorcycle Carburetor Re-Install Highlights”
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Is that Thomson? Beautiful riding out there.
My bike doesnt have the choke cable, just a manual choke, the choke cable is broken, is that why its so hard to start?
what about having the air inlet off? I’m putting it back on right now what a bitch!
where is the fuel filter located at and what does it look like?
I found it was much easier to disconnect the choke cable at the handlebar thumb switch and carefully pull it free of the bars, frame, etc. before you remove the carb from the bike. That plastic piece (at the carb end) is very fragile & not a lot of threads holding it in place-easy to break. Reconnect it to the handlebar thumb switch after you have reinstalled the carb. It’s a lot easier to re-torque it to proper tightness to the carb when it’s on the bench. It’s gonna cost at least $20 (for example, bikebandit with the shipping, or drive to the nearest dealer, lol) for just the one small part if it strips or breaks, and it’s a vacuum leak if it’s not torqued proper, or broken. Yeah, I learned this the hard way… There is a metal replacement part that’s twice the $$, plus shipping, but if you’re careful and take your time you don’t need it.
Also, if the carb-to-air cleaner vinyl boot is old and hardened, it’s much more difficult to reinstall the carb. Replace it with a new, soft & flexy one and it’s much easier! A radiator hose hook tool makes it easy to fit the boot to the carb inlet.